Owner's manual · rev A · draft
OceanBattle
How to set up, control, and look after the unit. For how to actually play, see the Player's Manual.
What's in front of you
Ocean Battle is three boxes and a couple of cables:
- Two consoles. These are identical — each simply reads Player Console, with nothing marking one as Player 1 or Player 2. Each has a 12×12 grid of light-up buttons, a small screen, and a dial you can turn and press. This is where you sit and play.
- The brain. The referee. It runs the game, keeps score, and holds the single speaker. You don't interact with it directly — it just needs power and both consoles plugged in.
- Two console cables and one power supply. Each console connects to the brain with a ribbon cable. The power supply plugs into the brain.
The consoles have no brain of their own on purpose — everything the game knows lives in the referee. That's why a console can be unplugged and plugged back in mid-game and pick up exactly where it left off.
Setting up
- Power off first. Make sure the brain's power switch is off before you plug anything in.
- Plug into the brain's ports. The brain has two ports, A and B. For a two-player game, plug one console into A and the other into B. To play solo against the computer, plug a single console into A only. Push each cable on until the latch clicks — the plugs are keyed and only fit one way, so don't force them.
- Plug in the power supply to the brain, then to the wall.
- Switch the brain on. Both consoles wake up to the title screen — the grid runs a slow, colourful wandering pattern while you wait. You're ready to play.
Because the consoles are identical, it's the brain's A and B ports that assign the two sides — so it doesn't matter which console you plug where. Solo play always uses port A. Swap consoles freely; just power the brain off before you do.
Always power the brain down before connecting or disconnecting a console. Plugging a console in live can damage it. And check a home-made cable's orientation before first use — a reversed cable can kill a console.
Controls at a glance
Each console has three things you touch. The screen and dial together are one physical plate, labeled Captain's Console on the unit — that's the small sub-panel you're actually looking at and turning when you play.
| Control | What it's for |
|---|---|
| The grid | 144 light-up buttons. Used for playing — firing shots and placing ships. It's the only thing that lights up in colour. |
| Captain's Console — dial | Turn it to move through menus and choose options; press it to select. During play, a press opens the menu (and in Salvo, commits your volley). |
| Captain's Console — screen | Tells you what's happening — whose turn it is, menus, messages. It always names what the grid is showing: YOUR SHOTS or YOUR FLEET. |
Starting a game
At power-up both consoles show the title. Whoever presses the dial first becomes the host for that game — the host chooses the board size and rules. From there the Player's Manual takes over.
Settings & what's saved
Two settings you'll reach for, both from the dial menu:
- Volume is shared — there's one speaker, in the brain — so changing it on either console changes it for both. It runs 0 to 10, and 0 shows as
OFF. - Brightness is per console, since each has its own grid. While you adjust it, the grid shows a fixed pattern echoing the TRaCK logo, so you're previewing the actual brightness on real pixels rather than guessing from a blank grid. Set each console to taste.
What survives a power-off
Your settings are remembered between sessions, so you're not resetting them every time:
| Setting | Remembered by |
|---|---|
| Volume | The brain (shared) |
| Rules (all five) | The brain |
| Last board size | The brain — pre-selected next time |
| Brightness | Each console, on its own |
A game in progress is not saved. Cutting the power ends the current game — which is the honest behaviour for a thing on a table.
Firmware updates
Ocean Battle can update its own firmware over WiFi. The brain has no internet connection of its own — it borrows your phone's or computer's for the minute or two it takes to check for and download an update.
- Enter Update Mode. Press and hold the Reset button on the brain for 3 seconds. Hold it — a quick double-press instead resets the current game, not the firmware.
- Join the brain's WiFi. The brain's screen shows a network name and password unique to your unit. Join it from a phone, tablet, or computer. On a phone, keep your cellular data on — you're joining the brain's WiFi for the connection, but still need your own data to reach the internet.
- Open the update page. Go to
192.168.4.1in a browser. It checks the latest version and shows you what's available. - Start the update. Keep the page open and don't unplug anything while it runs.
- Let it finish. Each console updates in turn — one not connected is simply skipped — then the brain updates itself last and restarts automatically. The page tells you when it's safe to close.
Both the brain's own screen and each console's screen show their own progress as this happens, so you can follow along without looking at your phone.
Power stays on and cables stay connected from Update Mode until the brain finishes restarting. Interrupting partway through can leave a console or the brain without working firmware.
Both consoles and the brain must be on matching firmware to play a two-player game — a mismatch blocks the start until they're updated to match. Solo play isn't affected by this check.
Keep this page open.
You can close this page.
Care & handling
- Keep it dry. It's open electronics — no drinks over the grid.
- Clean with a dry or barely-damp cloth. No sprays or solvents on the buttons or screen.
- Give it air. The brain and power supply get mildly warm; don't run them boxed in or under a blanket.
- Carry by the console body, never by the cable. Unplug by the connector, not by pulling the ribbon.
- Store the cables loosely coiled. Sharp kinks in a ribbon cable break conductors over time.
Use only the supplied 12 V power adapter. A wrong-voltage adapter can destroy the unit. If the supply or a cable is frayed or damaged, stop using it.
Troubleshooting
| What you see | What to do |
|---|---|
LINK LOST — CHECK CABLE | The console lost contact with the brain. Reseat the ribbon cable at both ends. Play resumes right where it stopped once the link is back. |
| A console stays dark | Check the brain is switched on and the power supply is plugged in. Then check that console's cable is fully seated and latched. |
| Nothing responds | After ten idle minutes out of a game, the unit sleeps to save the screen. Press any button to wake it. |
| No sound | Volume may be at OFF (0). Raise it from either console's menu — remember it's shared. |
| Update won't download or gets stuck | The brain has no internet of its own — make sure your phone or computer still has its own data or WiFi internet connection while joined to the brain's network. Re-enter Update Mode and try again. |
| Both consoles show the title and won't start | Someone has to host. Press the dial on either console to begin. |
| A single grid button won't light or respond | Power-cycle the brain. If one specific cell keeps misbehaving, it's likely a hardware fault on that button — note which one for repair. |
When in doubt, the safe reset is: power the brain off, check both cables are seated, power back on. Because the brain holds all the state, a clean restart fixes most oddities without losing your saved settings.
Specifications
| Players | 2, or 1 versus the computer |
| Consoles | 2, identical and interchangeable |
| Grid | 12 × 12 — 144 light-up silicone buttons, ~180 × 180 mm |
| Screen | 3.5″ colour display per console (480 × 320) |
| Control | One turn-and-press dial per console |
| Brain | Referee unit; holds the single shared speaker |
| Console link | Keyed ribbon cable, console to brain |
| Power | 12 V DC, ~6 A supply, with master switch and fuse in the brain |
| Board sizes | 6×6, 8×8, 10×10, 12×12 |
