Ocean Battle — Owner's Manual

Owner's manual · rev A · draft

OceanBattle

How to set up, control, and look after the unit. For how to actually play, see the Player's Manual.

Consoles 2, identical
Brain 1 referee
Power 12 V DC
01

What's in front of you

Ocean Battle is three boxes and a couple of cables:

  • Two consoles. These are identical — each simply reads Player Console, with nothing marking one as Player 1 or Player 2. Each has a 12×12 grid of light-up buttons, a small screen, and a dial you can turn and press. This is where you sit and play.
  • The brain. The referee. It runs the game, keeps score, and holds the single speaker. You don't interact with it directly — it just needs power and both consoles plugged in.
  • Two console cables and one power supply. Each console connects to the brain with a ribbon cable. The power supply plugs into the brain.

The consoles have no brain of their own on purpose — everything the game knows lives in the referee. That's why a console can be unplugged and plugged back in mid-game and pick up exactly where it left off.

02

Setting up

  1. Power off first. Make sure the brain's power switch is off before you plug anything in.
  2. Plug into the brain's ports. The brain has two ports, A and B. For a two-player game, plug one console into A and the other into B. To play solo against the computer, plug a single console into A only. Push each cable on until the latch clicks — the plugs are keyed and only fit one way, so don't force them.
  3. Plug in the power supply to the brain, then to the wall.
  4. Switch the brain on. Both consoles wake up to the title screen — the grid runs a slow, colourful wandering pattern while you wait. You're ready to play.
The port decides the side, not the console

Because the consoles are identical, it's the brain's A and B ports that assign the two sides — so it doesn't matter which console you plug where. Solo play always uses port A. Swap consoles freely; just power the brain off before you do.

Don't hot-plug

Always power the brain down before connecting or disconnecting a console. Plugging a console in live can damage it. And check a home-made cable's orientation before first use — a reversed cable can kill a console.

03

Controls at a glance

Each console has three things you touch. The screen and dial together are one physical plate, labeled Captain's Console on the unit — that's the small sub-panel you're actually looking at and turning when you play.

ControlWhat it's for
The grid144 light-up buttons. Used for playing — firing shots and placing ships. It's the only thing that lights up in colour.
Captain's Console — dialTurn it to move through menus and choose options; press it to select. During play, a press opens the menu (and in Salvo, commits your volley).
Captain's Console — screenTells you what's happening — whose turn it is, menus, messages. It always names what the grid is showing: YOUR SHOTS or YOUR FLEET.

Starting a game

At power-up both consoles show the title. Whoever presses the dial first becomes the host for that game — the host chooses the board size and rules. From there the Player's Manual takes over.

04

Settings & what's saved

Two settings you'll reach for, both from the dial menu:

  • Volume is shared — there's one speaker, in the brain — so changing it on either console changes it for both. It runs 0 to 10, and 0 shows as OFF.
  • Brightness is per console, since each has its own grid. While you adjust it, the grid shows a fixed pattern echoing the TRaCK logo, so you're previewing the actual brightness on real pixels rather than guessing from a blank grid. Set each console to taste.

What survives a power-off

Your settings are remembered between sessions, so you're not resetting them every time:

SettingRemembered by
VolumeThe brain (shared)
Rules (all five)The brain
Last board sizeThe brain — pre-selected next time
BrightnessEach console, on its own

A game in progress is not saved. Cutting the power ends the current game — which is the honest behaviour for a thing on a table.

05

Firmware updates

Ocean Battle can update its own firmware over WiFi. The brain has no internet connection of its own — it borrows your phone's or computer's for the minute or two it takes to check for and download an update.

Four device screens during an update: the brain's round display showing Update Mode with a WiFi network name, password, and the 192.168.4.1 address to open; the brain's round display showing Updating with Console A's progress; a console screen showing System Update, Updating, with a progress bar; and a console screen showing Please Wait, Updating The Other Console.
What the brain and consoles show during an update
  1. Enter Update Mode. Press and hold the Reset button on the brain for 3 seconds. Hold it — a quick double-press instead resets the current game, not the firmware.
  2. Join the brain's WiFi. The brain's screen shows a network name and password unique to your unit. Join it from a phone, tablet, or computer. On a phone, keep your cellular data on — you're joining the brain's WiFi for the connection, but still need your own data to reach the internet.
  3. Open the update page. Go to 192.168.4.1 in a browser. It checks the latest version and shows you what's available.
  4. Start the update. Keep the page open and don't unplug anything while it runs.
  5. Let it finish. Each console updates in turn — one not connected is simply skipped — then the brain updates itself last and restarts automatically. The page tells you when it's safe to close.

Both the brain's own screen and each console's screen show their own progress as this happens, so you can follow along without looking at your phone.

Don't unplug during an update

Power stays on and cables stay connected from Update Mode until the brain finishes restarting. Interrupting partway through can leave a console or the brain without working firmware.

If a console won't start a two-player game

Both consoles and the brain must be on matching firmware to play a two-player game — a mismatch blocks the start until they're updated to match. Solo play isn't affected by this check.

OCEAN BATTLE
SYSTEM UPDATE
Brainv1.7 → v1.8
Console Av1.7 → v1.8
Console Bnot connected
UPDATE TO v1.8
Takes about a minute.
Keep this page open.
Update available
OCEAN BATTLE
UPDATING
Console Adone
Console Bskipped
Braininstalling
DO NOT UNPLUG
Keep this page open.
Updating
OCEAN BATTLE
ALL SET
v1.8
INSTALLED
Brainv1.8
Console Av1.8
Brain is restarting.
You can close this page.
Done
The update page at 192.168.4.1
06

Care & handling

  • Keep it dry. It's open electronics — no drinks over the grid.
  • Clean with a dry or barely-damp cloth. No sprays or solvents on the buttons or screen.
  • Give it air. The brain and power supply get mildly warm; don't run them boxed in or under a blanket.
  • Carry by the console body, never by the cable. Unplug by the connector, not by pulling the ribbon.
  • Store the cables loosely coiled. Sharp kinks in a ribbon cable break conductors over time.
Power supply

Use only the supplied 12 V power adapter. A wrong-voltage adapter can destroy the unit. If the supply or a cable is frayed or damaged, stop using it.

07

Troubleshooting

What you seeWhat to do
LINK LOST — CHECK CABLEThe console lost contact with the brain. Reseat the ribbon cable at both ends. Play resumes right where it stopped once the link is back.
A console stays darkCheck the brain is switched on and the power supply is plugged in. Then check that console's cable is fully seated and latched.
Nothing respondsAfter ten idle minutes out of a game, the unit sleeps to save the screen. Press any button to wake it.
No soundVolume may be at OFF (0). Raise it from either console's menu — remember it's shared.
Update won't download or gets stuckThe brain has no internet of its own — make sure your phone or computer still has its own data or WiFi internet connection while joined to the brain's network. Re-enter Update Mode and try again.
Both consoles show the title and won't startSomeone has to host. Press the dial on either console to begin.
A single grid button won't light or respondPower-cycle the brain. If one specific cell keeps misbehaving, it's likely a hardware fault on that button — note which one for repair.

When in doubt, the safe reset is: power the brain off, check both cables are seated, power back on. Because the brain holds all the state, a clean restart fixes most oddities without losing your saved settings.

08

Specifications

Players2, or 1 versus the computer
Consoles2, identical and interchangeable
Grid12 × 12 — 144 light-up silicone buttons, ~180 × 180 mm
Screen3.5″ colour display per console (480 × 320)
ControlOne turn-and-press dial per console
BrainReferee unit; holds the single shared speaker
Console linkKeyed ribbon cable, console to brain
Power12 V DC, ~6 A supply, with master switch and fuse in the brain
Board sizes6×6, 8×8, 10×10, 12×12
Ocean Battle · owner's manual rev A (draft) · companion to the player's manual and game design